Archive: Clashes at the Fortress

My previous post mentioned that I spent most of my free time this winter bouldering in the Superstitions Mountains and Oak Flat. This post will be dedicated to the former. Although it was my first season spending so much time up there, it wasn't my first time climbing in the Supes. That honor belongs to the winter of 2020, about a year since I've arrived in Phoenix. Like most first-time experiences, I don't remember too much about it, besides meeting with another climber named Kevin on Facebook and finally arriving at our destination after what seemed like endless bushwhacking. Bushwhacking while carrying heavy crashpads and water didn't make the experience too fun at the time, but even a bad day of exploration beats a good day at work. Looking back upon it, I now think that experience was very nice since there were no expectations, and we were just adventuring from rock to rock in the search of chalk. It was only a year later during this winter that I finally discovered that there is an actual trail to the crags.   

The approach starts at the Peralta Trailhead. From Phoenix, it's about an hour drive, where the first half of the commute is on paved roads of US-60 East, and the last half is on the winding dirt roads to the trailhead. According to the previous generation, the road has gotten much better, and I don't mind it so much. On the drive in on the dirt road, you can see a pretty nice contrast to the hustle and bustle on the freeway. There is a general feeling that life slows down a bit out here.

Unfortunately, slowing life down doesn't mean that the approach is easy. This hike in gets you fit, especially if you are carrying crashpads! From a direction standpoint, you mostly follow the bluff springs trail up to a plateau, at which point you take a left turn on a climber's trail to the crags. The approach is mostly uphill, with two sections of steep hiking, separated by a flat section, and ending with tired legs and a thought of why you keep doing this week after week. Ah, the things we do for the boulders. 

From what I've been aware of, there are a lot of sectors in the Supes. The three main ones that I'm aware of are The Fortress, The Cemetery, and Valhalla. The one that I frequented the most during this winter was the Fortress sector (and the closest one!). If I had to characterize it, the bouldering at the Fortress is as opposite to Oak Flat as you can get-if Oak Flat favored a cool, calm, and collected style, than the Fortress favored an aggressive and athletic temperament. Vertical routes here are few and far between, with most of the boulders in this sector showcasing overhung and burly movement. Now this is the dangling that we're looking for!

I came out here most consistently with Joe, and a few others so often that we got dubbed the "Sunday crew" by the ranger at the base of the approach. It's good to get out here with a group, as the climbs can require a large landing. There were stashed pads, but they were about as effective as paper is at stopping a bullet. Good to maybe cover the rocks, but not something you would really want to fall on. It is interesting seeing the artifacts from the previous generation of boulderers that frequented this a decade ago. You feel a bit of history, where you are reading a message to those who came before you, and providing a message for those who will come after.

There are a few noticeable climbs I was hoping to do this season, and I managed to do ascents on all of them. If inspiration strikes again, I'll come back and offer my thoughts on each of the climbs. 

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot

Mother of Invention

Game Changer 

The end of a good day at the Fortress

For a first season, the Supes were great to climb at! I've recently been made aware of some of the harder linkups in this sector, so I can't wait to go back to session on them- but for now- it's getting a bit hot, so it's time to head back up north. 

Ticklist:

Keyhole

Keymaster

Wonder Boy

Double Down

Mike's Arete

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot

Mother of Invention

Game Changer

Projects:

Mother of Extension

I Am Superman

Public Enemy

Collective Consciousness 

Tide Turner