Went back up to the draw Sunday to climb with Bobby again with Skyler and Anthony. Surprisingly, there was no one around when we showed up. We started with a middling warmup on the Monster Roof. It was Anthony's first time trying Move N' Groove, and both him and Skyler put in several close burns, with Anthony coming close to flashing. Bobby was trying the linkup of The Beautician and Move N' Groove. I was able to manage a clean ascent on Move N' Groove after dabbing on the throw on a repeat last week. Despite the lackluster warmup, it ended up being a great session at Mars roof as Bobby smashed his first lap of The Girl. It was a really fun send to watch, and a testament to his dedication to working on climbs that tackle your weaknesses and mental endurance to get it done. Nice work!! Skyler got close following Bobby on it, and Anthony started working The Girl.
I decided to be disciplined this time around and not pull on The Girl at all, instead opting to optimize the start of Suplexing Navajo, which also shares the same start with Lolita. The typical method for climbing these two lines starts with a finicky left toe cam and a thrutchy first move to a 3-finger gaston. For a while, I had been quite discouraged from working these moves as the start move was incredibly low percentage. Until today, I had a 1 in 5 chance of snagging the pocket and successfully starting the line. The main reason why the line suddenly felt different today was a change in the starting beta that I had saw last week from another climber, Raina, who was also working the line. The funny thing was that I initially wrote off the beta entirely when I first saw it, but it's funny how quickly things change once you try it. The thing I noticed was that she first moves her left hand to another undercling closer to her starting foot, which lets her set up better for the 3 finger gaston. I implemented a similar method, starting with my right hand in a tiny two-finger pocket gaston, and then walking my right foot into the heart-shaped cam and my left foot toeing down into a larger foot. Suddenly, the 3-finger gaston move was doable, and now it actually feels like the remaining two exits can finally go instead of being some far-off pipe dream. It's nice having a breakthrough so I think I'll be climbing (and posting) a bit more from Mars in the future.. Anyways, here's some photos and videos from today. I'll get some more action shots of Anthony in the future too.
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