The spring semester has officially ended and classes are finished. While school is officially out, I'm still learning. Instead of transistor amplifier topologies, I've now shifted focus into roof climbing. The season is now in full swing! I've been a bit busy revisiting my old projects and revising the beta I had on them. The reason for this is that I recently started paying more attention to my morphology, and how I can take advantage of what my body can do, and how I can mitigate my weaknesses, which in the end will help me refine the beta I will use to approach my projects. In particular, I recently found out that I have longer legs than my arms (a positive sloth index). This, combined with a positive ape index, means that I would more than likely find high feet to be quite difficult in that it may push my hips out a bit further from the wall. That being said, it also means that I would be more prone to doing stretched out moves, and that I should work on getting better on compressing my lower limbs. Additionally, I found out that my wrist extensors and anterior core are weak. I started working on forearm conditioning by doing wrist flexor and wrist extensor exercises. I also started doing some static core-work. I don't really know if it'll help me that much, but it is better than doing nothing on the rest days. Now, back to the actual climbing.
The Friday after working on Truffle Shuffle, I went to Super Roof. I managed to find a new way to start directly on the roof, without putting feet on the skirt. The new beta uses a few more stretched out moves where I start with my head facing the skirt and revolving around my limbs at the start of the climb, and a cheeky left toe-hook after the throw to the jug to allow for a tiny drop in to a small side-pull for the top-out. It feels much more consistent to me this way.
Super Roof
The past Saturday, I went up to roofs again with Adam, and we met up with Josh and a Houston climber named Leo. In the morning, I caved and started working on walking my feet through on Ultramega instead of doing a double toe-hook swing through. This method does require me to use some scrunched-up leg positions, but it seems to waste the least amount of energy out of all the ways. I think it will also help develop foot tension.
I've also been working on some new projects. Most recently, Adam, Josh, and I managed to finally finish off Twister. Adam did a gnarly campus bump to finish off this one, while I opted for a foot walk sequence. The footholds for the walkaround can be a bit marginal, but they are large enough. I may end up coming back to this one as part of a Floorpie roof circuit.
Me on Twister
Additionally, I also managed to make a return session on Mars Roof. I finally did the first start-move, which actually isn't as hard as I've heard others make it out to be. I also learned about some new micro-beta from Chris and Henry on the Receptionist revolving around the teacup hold, which has a tiny groove for your right index finger. Thanks to the new beta, I finally made it past my personal crux on latching the second phone hold. So technically, as of yesterday, I've done all the moves on Receptionist, and so I'm excited to go back to that roof to see if I can start making links. The movement on it is very fun, it reminds me of a combination of Bad Ass Roof and Super Roof.
As for new roof projects, I'm still working on trying to do Ultramega forwards and backwards. I might start breaking it down and start climbing from the start of Bat Cave and reverse the traverse back into the fin. That would make a new warm-up variation. I also tried Eatmeater, which reverses Meateater. It has a crux move where I do a toe-hook + shin cam on the banana hold as I go left-to-right, but I haven't hit it yet. Besides that, I've done the rest of the moves, so it also feels close. I'll see when I can get into it. There's plenty of stuff to do, old and new.
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