42 V-points

Ended up wandering Northern AZ with Evan and Shelby for three days during fourth of July weekend. It was a pretty humid day, so I wasn't expecting to climb much, but Saturday ended up being one of my best days of climbing. 

I ended up collecting a total of 42 V-points that day. Here's the breakdown:

Super Roof 5 V-points

Super Roof backwards (first time) 5 V-points

Bad Ass 5 V-points

Eatmeater (first time) 8 V-points

Meateater 7 V-points

Move N' Groove 7 V-points

Bat Cave 3 V-points (end of the day)

Fin 2 V-points (end of the day)

Me aside, it seemed like the rest of the group also had a really good day. Evan managed to get a flash of Bad Ass, and got close on Move N' Groove, and Shelby got much further along on her project on the Super Roof. 

Thinking about it now, not even sure what really caused it. I didn't end up eating much the whole day. Until dinner time, I just ate two chip ahoy cookies and a cinnamon raisin bagel. It's possible that the vibe of the crew today was really good, but we'll never know. Lesson learned- just go climbing even if it might not seem to be a good day, you just might surprise yourself!  

The next day, I ended up back at the draw with Kevin and Evan. I ended up repeating Eatmeater (surprisingly, since I was worked) to get footage, and Kevin got his first send of the Bat Cave. 

Eatmeater is a really interesting climb. It starts on the end of Meateater and reverses it into Anorexic. My primary crux was really dropping into the pocket right before the big banana hold, but thanks to some clutch beta from Tim that I saw a week prior during my attempt at the Triple Exit (Anorexic, Meateater, Carnivore in a day), I was able to piece it all together. I'm particularly proud of myself for coming up with an inventive middle sequence beta that involves me flipping my hands around to walk my hands through the good holds instead of grabbing tiny pockets. That being said, it's entirely possible that my beta is just suitable to my body and others will have to do it the more standard way. Additionally, it seemed like Saturday was the Eatmeater day, as I saw three other people also do it that day. Guess it was a lucky day. Cheers Yuto, Nico, and Jeff!  

Eatmeater aka Bullemic 

Yours Truly hitting the end hold

We then went exploring for the the Overhaul Roof! It's a scary one, probably one to do when you're bored and have nothing left to climb.

Overhaul Roof

Some blank monster

On Monday, I ended up sessioning at the Receptionist in the morning. I ended up learning some pretty key beta that for the sloper (phone) slap, the wall changes from a roof to a 45 degree wall, which means that the stance to get into the move will alter. I ended up raising the probability of that move by opening up the hips up and keeping the left hand open wide. Progress is slow on this rig, but it's going. That afternoon, Evan and I returned to send the Pufferfish problem, which is one of my nemesis problems at the draw. It's not particularly difficult, but heel hooks just don't jive that well with me. I ended up working out a way to smoothly send the climb, but it took some goes. 

Pufferfish

I then went to try R God is Neither. I got much closer than I had two months ago, but still releasing that right toe cam is hard. I'll be back up north tomorrow to climb for a bit with Joe on the line at night, but until then, might go session some other lines during the day, or go exploring the hinterlands for Tony's Roof in the Gray Havens. Then on Sunday, it's on to sport climbing at the Pit with Halo and co. I have no expectations here, as I primarily boulder. 

Projects seem a bit more sparse now that I ticked off two big lines that I thought I would never have done this year. I hate the feeling of not having a specific climb to work towards, so I guess it's time to go project shopping on my weekend outings. Other than R God and the Receptionist, I can spend some time updating my vertical climbing game. That probably means spending some time wandering the Ridge or doing some of the traverses like Street Fighter or Truffle Shuffle.