Lessons from Mars Roof

I've been refraining from writing about Mars Roof for a while. But I finally feel comfortable writing about it. 

I first came to Mars Roof last November. It was intimidating. The pockets were numerous, and it felt like I was stuck in a twister of holds. The reputation and difficulty of the lines were another thing entirely. I didn't know anyone working these lines, so even the climbers working and sending the lines seemed to be on another level beyond my conception. And so, for a long time, I don't think I ever treated Mars Roof as a place that I can seriously work the lines, but instead as a way for some limit bouldering to build power and strength, and nothing more. 

First time on Mars

My view of Mars Roof had shifted slightly since then when I returned back to Mars in the spring. Instead of being completely inaccessible, Mars Roof slowly turned into a slightly more achievable goal. It became the test piece roof to demonstrate all the skills acquired from all the other ones around NAZ. Every other roof, up to it, each contains a little lesson that you should learn in order to send. And these lessons all stack upon each other to build you a skillset that lets you approach Mars. Over the sessions I've spent there, I've learned that is not the case. The phrase: "Some things can't really be taught, only learned" is very applicable here, and Mars is no exception. 

Dry-firing off of Mars in the summer

This past weekend, I had a really good experience on Mars Roof with a sizeable group from Phoenix and Tucson, which included Andrew Westerhoff, Laura Schmidt, Laurel Falk and friends, and Sam and friends from Focus Climbing Center and PRG. Even though I haven't been on Mars in a while, it was one of the best sessions I had. Although I didn't send Receptionist, I learned a few good lessons:

1. Mars roof isn't that unapproachable. Most moves are very doable, there's just a lot of them, and you need to dial them in. 
2. Name all the holds. It's easier to remember what to do if you give each hold a name. 
3. It's better to not rapid-fire your burns. Mars roof can be very power-endurancey, so make sure to rest 10-20 minutes in between burns. 
4. Focus on breathing. Focusing on your breath has by far been the best thing that has helped me on this roof. Oxygen keeps your body going. 
5. It's ok if your breathing makes noise. It's hard, so you got to try. 
6. Pay attention to how you're grabbing holds. Thumb combinatorics is a big part of the process.
7. Keep your arms as straight as you can to prevent energy usage. From what I understand, 10 move boulders are hitting the realm of power endurance, so you want to do all the moves with maximum efficiency. 
8. Falling is part of the process. I remember discussing this with Brett a while ago. You can't focus on climbing if you're focused on falling, so if you're surprised that you fell, it's ok- it means you were dialed in. 
9. Projecting is mentally tiring, so don't be afraid to step away once your mental energy is done for the day. 
10. This one is more for me, but if you're trying (and doing!) the moves, you are capable of the line. You just need to try. Move and focus like you deserve to be there. 

Sticking the phone with confidence