Limestone season so far

Recently, the weather has finally been good enough to start heading up north. I would like to establish a list here of my goals this season:

1) 3x Mini-projects: Blockhead, V8; R God is Neither, V8, Puma Prey, V8/V9, Streetfighter V7

2) Projects: The Girl, V10; Lolita, V10, The Girl from Ipanema V10/V11

3) Repeat Receptionist V10

4) Bored of Inquiry 5.12b at Jacks Canyon, Purple Shark 5.12a at the Pit, Pulse Roof 5.12c at the Pit

5) Go explore New/Dain's World with Bobby on the Rim (Bobcat's Den), and camp out at End of the World 

6) Maybe do a climb at Kelly Canyon, Cherry Canyon (The Rapture/Juggernaut(?)/Truffle Shuffle)

7) Make a video compiling all of the single climbs on Badass Roof. 

And now, all the word soup and stream of consciousness: 

I've been spending the last 2-3 months recovering from an injured wrist and the last 2 weeks recovering from the knee injuries that I got in Joes climbing on Water Paintings. Fitness hasn't been all that great, but I'm sure it'll build up as I keep heading up north. I've started doing max hangs before my sessions at the gym. I don't know if they work, but at least my fingers are warmed up. The main goal is to either complete the mini-projects as I work through the lines on Mars Roof, but at this point, it feels quite late in the season and I'm not at where I would like to be. 

On my first day back at the draw, I was able to repeat the Fin, Bat Cave, Anorexic, Badass, and Meateater first go from the start. I then went to work on Blockhead, which is the last independent line on the Badass Roof. I'm not entirely sure where the line goes, but as the guidebook says it exits to the right of Stinky Ass, so it does. It's an interesting climb, as in the way I climb it, I revolve around a left hand stacked pocket for 3 right-hand sloper slaps, each one a little bit bigger than the last. I was able to do all the moves, but didn't have enough pads to get it done. I'm planning on going there this weekend to finish it off. It may or may not go, but it's worth a shot. 

Blockhead on a cooler day

The past weekend, I was climbing at Jacks Canyon with Stijn, Kevin, Tyler, Carmen, Kim, Cole, and Antho on Saturday. I haven't touched a rope in forever, but I managed to work out all the moves on a bouldery sport route, Bored of Inquiry, with Cole. The next day, I hit up the draw to see if I could finish it off. It was not a good decision, as it was quite hot and stuffy in flag. I got sucked into climbing at Anorexic Roof with the AZR crew, and did a few laps on Anorexic and tried to repeat Bullemic (Eatmeater). Bullemic didn't go, but I did manage to find some very cool beta that I think is better than my current strategy. I then hiked over to Badass where I climbed a bit with Adrianne, Dustin, and their family, as well as Sidney from AZR. I found that I was running on fumes (climbing on just cold brew and 6 hours of sleep is not a good strategy), and flailed a bit on Stinky Ass and Blockhead. I was still able to do Badass. At the very least, in my bare minimum state, I'm able to still crank out a classic or two to build up some endurance. 

The season has been largely quite uneventful, but I hope it gets better soon as the forest roads open up. Unfortunately, due to the large amount of snowfall, it looks like Choss Roof won't be dry until August or September. I've also been fluctuating in motivation, since I haven't climbed anything very satisfying in recent memory. On the upside, I've gotten some people ready to head out and try hard, so I think that will help. I also recently received news that Mars Roof is dry so I'm now motivated to get better and stronger. Life in and out of climbing has been a bit stale. I'm still a bit lost on what I want. Maybe I'll find out that answer too. I'm wary, but hopeful.