The siege of GWP

Progress on the GWP continues. 

I managed to make it all the way to the end of the roof. In true fashion, I managed to punt the last toss to the jug. Although unfortunate, it's partly a good sign since that's how most of my projects go. I was also able to figure out some better beta and sequencing for the climb. Despite being a roof boulder, the climbing is unlike that of the roofs at the draw. The roofs at the draw usually allow for decent opposition, as you can twist and maneuver your way around the pockets. Additionally, the climbs usually have features that allow the usage of your thumbs, which means the grip types can vary a lot more. On this roof, the pockets are better, but requires more dangling and straight-forward, brute methods. I did not find many opportunities to engage my thumbs on this climb, and it feels more of just simply open-handing 3-finger and 2-finger pockets. Therefore, skin often will wear quite deep in the same spot. My fingers are quite sore and I'm focused on healing them. The tactics to climb this roof are also akin to what I've done on Mars Roof. I believe I will need to use more developed route tactics to eventually extend the lines. 

I think my work on the GWP has carried over to some of my easier projects. The past Saturday, I climbed with Noah, Paul and Nora. At Anorexic Roof, I was able to do the Meateater and Anorexic Sacrifice exits from the Carnivore Direct jump. This is nice, as all that's left is the line leading out the BK Broiler exit. At Puzzle Box Roof, Paul led the way with a quick send of The Hermit, and Noah was also finally able to put it to rest. For the first time, I was able to take link R God is Neither through the crux to the last move. I think the reason I was able to do the crux on this line is due to the similarities it shares with a portion of the GWP. Unfortunately, I ran out of juice after doing the lines on the Anorexic roof, so I was not able to get it done.  Temperatures are finally falling, so I hope to take advantage of it soon.

#cantevendoit

Here are some other pictures from weekday night sessions in Superior. 

The GWP and Carnivore Direct

The weather finally took mercy on us and gave us cooler temperatures. I climbed at Oak Flat a week or two ago and did a thing. Over the past weekend, Bobby and I went to scope out a new sector. Bobby began working on one of the established lines, which climbs straight out from a roof into a nicely sized headwall while I was intrigued by what seemed to be an obvious, but undone exit. Due to the naming theme of the roof, I dub this new challenge the George Weasley Project (GWP for short). This one is, from my estimation, about 20 moves long with 13 increasingly-difficult and sharper and smaller roof pockets into a heartbreaker throw, to a tricky exit onto the headwall, and a topout on hero jugs. Progress was good, as we did all the moves and were making links. We also went looking for some fresh rock. We found generally featured aretes and prows, but not much in the cantilevered limestone sheets. We did stumble across a few nicely sized roofs, but did not find many holds underneath them. Onto the next, I guess. 

On Sunday, my arms suddenly grew 3 inches and I finally gave it to myself and sent Carnivore Direct, albeit not in the most efficient manner. Hooray. I can't wait to do all the exits from CD now. Thank you to Will and Ben for the support. I also went to do some sick sport climbing at the Peaks with Evan and friends. Although my bouldering legs are not suited for the approach, I enjoyed the rock and movement there. 

Starting the GWP. PC: Bobby

Carnivore Direct, PC: Will M.

Crimping down on one of the Blissium variants

Bobby working the topout