Tuesday, October 24, 2023

Fall + Winter Goals

It's been a while since I set up a goal list. For the last two or three years, I've been pretty focused on limestone roofs, so I'm in the mood to experience a new style. That being said, I compiled a list of some climbs that I would like to do to keep me accountable to this goal. For a while, I've been avoiding it due to physical weaknesses, but I finally have my eyes set on learning the sandstone that Sedona offers. I have doubts that I would be able to take off everything in the list, but I am most interested in cleaning up the GWP, Truffle Shuffle, Cocaine Nosejob, Berlin, and Beast from the east since, with Cocaine Nosejob as the exception, those are lines I've tried in the past and failed to complete. As for new climbs, I would be very interested in the lines at Grasshopper Point. 

Fall

Truffle Shuffle - Cherry Canyon, Flagstaff

Sectumsempra (George Weasley Project)

Cocaine Nosejob - Howard Draw, Flagstaff

Lolita - Priest Draw, Flagstaff

Winter

Alien Baby Left - Anvils, Sedona

Compression - Anvils, Sedona

Berlin - Bikini Wall, Sedona

Beast from the east - Bikini Wall, Sedona

Happy Puppy - Grasshopper Point, Sedona

Stuff Shootin' - Grasshopper Point, Sedona

DiHedArete - Grasshopper Point, Sedona

Roof Arete - Grasshopper Point, Sedona 

Facelift - Groom Creek, Prescott 

Mainline - Groom Creek, Prescott

Mini Slashface - South Mountain, Phoenix

Misadventures of Captain Stabbums - Superstitions, Superior

The Orb - Superstitions, Superior

Other climbs in Diablo Canyon, Hueco, RR, Joes and Moes

Thursday, October 19, 2023

4 Weeks of Fall

It's still a bit hot. I've been circuiting the draw once a week, sometimes doing some new things, but most of the times running laps. The current routine is to warm up on whatever strikes the fancy, and then do the two mandatory things:
  1. Do the mandatory rodeo jump move on Carnivore Direct. The way I exit afterwards is arbitrary.
  2. Climb The Receptionist/The Girl.
Mostly, I've been topping out The Receptionist, since the climb forces a more physical style, but I may end up switching over to The Girl. I've finally did R God is Neither, but the video quality is quite poor. I've been trying Lolita and BK Broiler, but I don't have too high expectations for either. I'm more psyched to work on things that aren't roofs, but with school in the midst, I think it's important to get to things that are logistically easy. 

In other news, I helped establish a roof boulder! Bobby found a nice one a few weeks ago out near Snakebait, and we (the roof hunter Bobby, the strongman Josh, the legend Matt Hoch, the designer of most of the beta at the draw, and I, your resident punter-in-chief) went out to put some work on it. Within a few hours we cleaned the holds, built the landing, established the various methods, made it go, and now it is dubbed The Pod Racer. It is fun being able to apply the skills we learned climbing on established roofs on new territory. Fall is now settling in, but for some reason, temperatures are still high, and skin is thin. We might go to the Burrow next week. I hope my body and brain is ready. 

Anyways, here's the picture and video dump:

Learning the style on Lolita

Sharing the style on The Receptionist

Bicycles on Lolita 

Emily enjoying the style on Badass

Bobby cleaning up The Pod Racer

Alternative method on The Pod Racer. Josh and Hoch on the spot.

Bobby developing the first method on The Pod Racer

GWP
New things:


Laps:


Priest Draw/EoY Update

I'm still been working on Lolita  at Priest Draw. I've now progressed to the point where the boulder can be segmented into 3 parts, ...