Monday, April 8, 2024

Spring Goals

I probably pressed the backspace button on my keyboard at least a dozen times trying to find a good, catchy sentence, but sometimes a meta take on your own procrastination is the best you're going to get. It's been a while since I've done an entry. School, work, and life in general has taken ahold of me, and sometimes, there really isn't that much time, or even stuff to write home about. Projects die slowly, and sometimes progress isn't as incremental or as obvious as you want it to be. I'm just champing at the bit. 

It's been a weird start to the spring season. Unlike other seasons, I have not spent multiple days at one boulder field with a consistent crew. Instead, I've been bouncing in between the Debt Ceiling in the hinterlands and both mars roof and PBR at the draw with a variety of people.  

The debt ceiling has been getting a lot of traffic recently. About a month ago, I put away the line of least resistance, Gentleman's Wager, FA'd by the roof magician Matt G, and after that, I've just been getting rocked (haha, pun!) by the rest of his and Joel Unema's creations. The debt ceiling is a great roof. It's a different style of roof climbing than compared to things at Priest Draw. This roof features big moves on great underclings, slopey jugs and compression blocks instead of pocket dangling, so the climbing is more reminiscent of what a standard roof looks like for most people. The lines here are also long- the shortest one clocks in around 15 moves or so, and the longest ones clock in to about 40+. Sport tactics definitely help here. Bobby has been climbing here quite often during the winter since he has moved up to Flagstaff, so his fitness and familiarity with the roof, in his words, is at an all time high. 

You would think that after doing the long lines at the Debt Ceiling would give me some semblance of fitness but I'm finding that if I'm not getting punched in the face by my projects on this roof, I'm getting decked by the lines at the draw. I'm currently punching in the clock on Cosmic Tricycle and Lolita. Progress has been slow, but at least steady. As of this post, I've been able to do all the moves on both climbs, so now begins the process of slowly linking it. Cosmic Tricycle feels close, but I'm not holding my breath. For Lolita, I was able to execute the foot-first toehook in order to bypass the large throw to the breadloaf from the 1-1/2 pad mono-stack, and then was able to walk my feet around back to the L-sit bicycle to top out the climb. It still feels difficult, but at least there are people to session stuff with. 

It's been a while since I've had a nice solo sesh so I'm hoping to take some time for myself and get out there. This is going to be a year of chasing after the ones that got away, and there are a lot of them. I'll put out the ones that are currently at the forefront of my brain. 
  • Cosmic Tricycle
  • Lolita
  • George Weasley Project (as soon as the forest roads open)
  • Truffle Shuffle (hopefully, I'm not bleeding all the time, unlike last fall)
  • Clampdown
Wizard's Duel 

Gentleman's Wager Direct


Anthony on Carnivore Direct

Jon going long on Carnivore Direct





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