Saturday, June 15, 2024

Backwoods Wandering: Choss Hunting

Went and took a look for some good rock in the Sitgreaves last weekend. Didn't find much in terms of good stone for roofs, but it's nice going hiking. There are lots of small, vertical features but many of the roofs are blank, which makes priest draw more amazing from a climbing and geological sense. It was a bit eerie wandering around, but at least that area was examined. 








Friday, June 14, 2024

Project Progress

I started working The Girl from Ipanema, which is the full line that completes The Girl out the double decker roof crack, shortly after doing Garden Heist. It's refreshing to work on something that's logistically easy to get to. Although it adds a different exit to the start, the climb is still quite nice as a general fitness builder, and if I get bored, I can easily shift over to work on Lolita or Suplexing. 

On my first session, I ended up repeating The Girl first try from the start. On the most recent session, I was able to do the crack boulder problem and the whole climb in two overlapping links, which is nice progress. I don't have much in terms of expectations, as the heat is here, but I'll continue chipping away at it and utilizing the fitness I get and transferring it to the longer climbs in the woods. I was also able to figure out my method for Lolita. It turns out that in order to get the toehook to stick, a pretty strong left arm lock is needed. Unfortunately, I don't have that ability at the moment, so I will need to resort to setting the toehook off of the two-finger pocket, bummer. 

I've also made a return to the Underhill. It's just fun to be there. I've given some effort in on Clampdown. The climbing on it is powerful, and I got an unfortunate flapper from tossing to the pocket at the start. On some reflection, I must not be doing the move right so I'm on the search for a new start sequence. In order to maintain some fitness, I'm toying with the idea of also working on End to End. 

Here are some photos from Joe Durling from a session with me and Anthony. It's nice getting away from the crowds and climbing with friends. 







Tramway and Choss

Some more stills from a return to Choss Roof trying Choss Origins and Choss Roof after a two year hiatus and a nice picture from Laura Schmidt from a trip to sample some bouldering in the California alpine via the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (PSAT-tttt). 




Xander on Spider Pocket 

Matt on Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon. PC: Laura Schmidt 

Sunday, June 2, 2024

From Dirt Grows Roofs

Due to a lack of solid plans, I spent this weekend sessioning at different roofs with different people at the draw, Choss Roof, and Underhill, repeating old projects and opening new ones. It is likely I will be sore for the next few days. The last two days have given me some insight that I'm starting to prefer longer power-endurance based boulders.

Looks like I will have the following goals: Clampdown, Flesh Eater, The Girl from Ipanema, Deluminator. I'll probably put Lolita on hold until I sort out that toehook for the lip encounter. There is a little canyon I would like to explore in the next week or two too.  

Thanks Xander for the suggestion for the kneebar. 

Priest Draw/EoY Update

I'm still been working on Lolita  at Priest Draw. I've now progressed to the point where the boulder can be segmented into 3 parts, ...