Monday, March 31, 2025

Suplexing Navajo/Lolita Session 3

Went back up to the draw Sunday to climb with Bobby again with Skyler and Anthony. Surprisingly, there was no one around when we showed up. We started with a middling warmup on the Monster Roof. It was Anthony's first time trying Move N' Groove, and both him and Skyler put in several close burns, with Anthony coming close to flashing. Bobby was trying the linkup of The Beautician and Move N' Groove. I was able to manage a clean ascent on Move N' Groove after dabbing on the throw on a repeat last week. Despite the lackluster warmup, it ended up being a great session at Mars roof as Bobby smashed his first lap of The Girl. It was a really fun send to watch, and a testament to his dedication to working on climbs that tackle your weaknesses and mental endurance to get it done. Nice work!! Skyler got close following Bobby on it, and Anthony started working The Girl. 

I decided to be disciplined this time around and not pull on The Girl at all, instead opting to optimize the start of Suplexing Navajo, which also shares the same start with Lolita. The typical method for climbing these two lines starts with a finicky left toe cam and a thrutchy first move to a 3-finger gaston. For a while, I had been quite discouraged from working these moves as the start move was incredibly low percentage. Until today, I had a 1 in 5 chance of snagging the pocket and successfully starting the line. The main reason why the line suddenly felt different today was a change in the starting beta that I had saw last week from another climber, Raina, who was also working the line. The funny thing was that I initially wrote off the beta entirely when I first saw it, but it's funny how quickly things change once you try it. The thing I noticed was that she first moves her left hand to another undercling closer to her starting foot, which lets her set up better for the 3 finger gaston. I implemented a similar method, starting with my right hand in a tiny two-finger pocket gaston, and then walking my right foot into the heart-shaped cam and my left foot toeing down into a larger foot. Suddenly, the 3-finger gaston move was doable, and now it actually feels like the remaining two exits can finally go instead of being some far-off pipe dream. It's nice having a breakthrough so I think I'll be climbing (and posting) a bit more from Mars in the future.. Anyways, here's some photos and videos from today. I'll get some more action shots of Anthony in the future too. 



Much better gaston 

Bobby

Skyler

Miso and Taco

Sunday, March 23, 2025

Suplexing Navajo project session 2

I went to the draw again with Skyler and met up with Bobby. We went to Mars roof and found a sea of foam from some other motivated and strong folks, which is nice, but it is difficult to really work in and warm up with so many people under the roof. The good thing though is that there is a lot of beta you can look at to figure out what you are missing in your sequence. 

Bobby and Skyler laid siege to The Girl, getting very close multiple times. I struggled to warm-up for the first hour or so, but when I think most people started taking a break, I was able to repeat The Girl, moving through the big move once and latching the finish jug before the traverse out to the exit, falling 3 times on the big move beforehand. I changed my beta on this climb in that I used to cam my right foot into the teacup hold of The Receptionist, but now I grab the high undercling with 3 fingers, stand up on the pinch and drive through to the next hold. It is objectively harder beta, but it feels comfortable to me. Although it did take me 4 tries to send The Girl, it's a a relatively good sign that my fitness is good. I think working the Serrated Arete linkup in the Superstitions did some wonders. 

After my warmup, I went to work on my goal on Suplexing Navajo. Overall, the session was a very distracted session, but I was able to quickly figure out two or three more moves on it, and so now the last thing I need to sort out is the topout. The boulder is enjoyable, some people note it as very sharp and uncomfortable, but I think it climbs very well in a style akin to the punchy blue ridge roofs. In my humble opinion, it probably has the best powerful roof climbing on Mars roof.  

We then took a trip over to Monster Roof, where we climbed on Move N' Groove to cool off. I used to think the problem was not that good back in the day when I first did it, but now I think it is a good problem to have in the draw with its open handed sloper grips on a roof, which is atypical from the typical pockety, dangly style that is characteristic of most of the climbing there. Bobby and Trevor started working a linkup from The Beautician into Move N' Groove

One recent thing I'm trying to get better at is pulling through and utilizing bad holds, and I initially went about this by climbing on slightly worse holds at a different angle (read overhanging). I recently received some advice on this topic, which recommended on climbing at angles that I'm used to, but with worse holds, which forces more finger and hand engagement. I think this helps more, as I'm familiar with the movement, and it reduces the mental strain as I mostly work on improving my hand and finger strength on different grip types. 

Anyways, I guess this means if I'm at the draw, I'll have to start searching out for more open-hand slopers and crimp holds on a roof, while working on finishing the right two lines on Mars. Didn't really take any photos or video this trip. I'll start updating my notes for Suplexing at some point.

Monday, March 17, 2025

Serrated Arete

Due to snow, the forest roads are now closed! The last two days, I went to the Fortress to try a linkup project that starts all the way in the back of the boulder on The Misadventure of Captain Stabbums and links into Mike's Arete

This line is the sister line to the other two existing lines that start there: The Misadventure of Captain Stabbums and Mother of Extension. I couldn't find much information or history on the line, but it ended up feeling somewhere in the realm of Mother of Extension and Misadventure of Captain Stabbums in terms of difficulty, so it was not V6/7 like I originally thought. It turns out that the easy overhanging vertical section of Mike's Arete becomes a bit harder after busting out some cave sequences.

I thought it would be a quick side project that I could dispatch relatively quickly in an afternoon, but due to some poor conditions (read: humidity from the rain the last few days and cool temperatures, the holds felt quite clammy and the sequences felt more finicky and precise, which gave me more trouble than I anticipated and I had to leave empty handed after falling multiple times in the punchy move to start Mike's Arete, and sometimes even in the heel hook bump move. Fortunately, I had a spell of good weather the next day and after trudging back up the hill again, I was able to dispatch the 20-move rig relatively quickly, so I'm glad it turned out to be a nice weekend level project. 

This being said, I think it's good to have some lines in between the stand-starts (that starts halfway up the cave) and the hard linkups that reverse Jack Lester's Shrink Ray (Ray Shrink) i.e. Father of Destruction, Deal Breaker, as it provides a nice intermediate level to build up fitness for the hard lines. In my case, I liken it to the Superstition's version of Seeker in terms of length and style. It is obviously not as good, but it keeps the fitness up as we wait for the roads to open. 

I also tried Jack Lester's Superman. It is the first time I was able to pull on the boulder and not feel wrist pain, though it is very physical in the shoulders. I need to do more climbs like these instead of long endurance-based boulders to build up power. 

Session 1

Session 1





Saturday, March 1, 2025

Never-ending season

Recently, it never feels like there's enough time to do all the things. I was hoping that this winter would have more snow so that I could devote some time to climbing non-roofs to get used to alternative holds, but it's hard to do so when the weather has been so compliant and the to-do list seems endless. 

Working the end of Ballista

Working the crux of Ballista


Bobby toehooks texture on Ballista

Project (more labor)

Working Suplexing Navajo


The Yoker

Getting closer on Seedling

Taking a lap

Skyler vs Devil's Snare

Nagini

Out of state: Moonshine Roof @ Hueco Tanks


Priest Draw/EoY Update

I'm still been working on Lolita  at Priest Draw. I've now progressed to the point where the boulder can be segmented into 3 parts, ...