Flesh-eating Greens

I've been climbing a bit more recently at the Megalodon Roof, trying the Flesh-Eater. The holds and moves are quite good, climbing a bit more like a hard version of Seeker, but certaintly harder than Wrackspurts at the Burrow. I was able to do all the moves on my second session, including the topout, but I've been getting stymied by the second and third move. The sequence forces a very tight bicycle to a bad undercling, followed by a personally difficult snatch move to a jug. I will be revisiting, so I hope my luck will be better this coming session as the weather gets better. 

Navigating the head-wall on Flesh Eater

Flesh-Eater

Project

Landing is coming together

Lowball Summer

Recently I was able to do one of my projects at the Burrow, a variant of The Niffler, put up by Matt Gentile. This variant shares the same first 5 or 6 moves of Deluminator and its link into the black gaston of Seeker. However, instead of finishing up Seeker, the line links into the Sectumsempra exit, which is on the right side of the roof. I found the climbing interesting, though not as dramatic as Niffler. While there's a big huck to a jug at the end of the roof climbing portion, there is no actual headwall to ascend. Despite this, I still found it satisfying to complete a line crossing from left to right, and so I dubbed it the Hand of Glory, which is named after the severed hand used to provide light to the holder (primarily thieves). It is also a reference that the hand that does the crux move and the jug finish are the same.

Unfortunately, the video I captured of he send was not in my usual style. I ended up missing the initial gaston stab to a critical pocket when climbing to the black gaston hold. Through some miracle, I didn't end up dabbing the pads, but I would have preferred to have done the ascent in a cleaner style. 

I will try to get a repeat uploaded to my video archive at some point, but for now, I plan on climbing my other projects elsewhere. Although there are a few lines left here at the burrow to complete, I think it will do me some good to climb on something that requires a bit more commitment and power, so that will be on my agenda to try this fall.