Back to the weekly trip reports!
As a treat to myself for finishing my Analog IC design class this past week, I decided to go take a day trip to the draw as a way to wind down with Adam and Kevin from Phoenix. Since Kevin hadn't been to the draw before, we decided to go with the grand tour of Priest Draw's bread'n'butter: Bat Roof, Baby Coffin, and the Anorexic Roof.
It was a pretty standard day at the draw. Bat Roof was crowded as usual, but that's not surprising since it is one of the most popular zones due to its decent landing, and a smattering of climbs in the lower range for those newer to the dangling arts. Bat Cave is a must-do V3, and so is the Fin which goes at V1/2. For those that are bored, you can do the local fitness check, Ultramega, a link up of the Fin to the Bat Cave, which ends up being a 50-foot roof climb that goes at around 5.11d, or V5/V6, which makes the Bat Roof a good place for warm ups. Kevin managed to get his first sends of the Fin, and Fin Direct, and Adam cruised them afterwards as well. I did the usual warmup of Fin, Bat Cave, and Ultramega, and then we hopped over to Anorexic.
Kevin on the Fin
Adam on the Fin
Anorexic Roof is also a pretty popular roof, and was featured in Chris Sharma's Rampage. It hosts a smattering of good climbs in the V6 (Anorexic Sacrifice) to V11 (Carnibroiler) range. Adam was hoping to try Meateater (V7), and I was hoping to do the big move on Carnivore (V8). Adam made some good links on Meateater, and I ended up surprising myself by taking down Carnivore, which was surprising considering how power-endurance it is. I climbed it 4 total times this session. I credit the send to the cold brew coffee I got from Kevin, as well as the sandwich from Sprouts. Jokes aside, it was a bit unexpected, since I've been in a weird funk lately with my climbing. Short-term projects have been going down relatively quickly, but the long-term ones have eluded me so far, until this one. I've been moonboarding, but stopped for a week since my fingers have been feeling oddly stiff. My projecting process has also been quite a mess. I haven't written down or visualized detailed beta in the last few months, and if I did at all, it was very vague. It was only the previous week that I decided to dive back into my old ways, and I guess that I just needed to sack it up and get it done.
After doing Carnivore, I tried to go for the triple exit (Carnivore, Anorexic, Meateater), but I fell off of Meateater after finishing off Anorexic. I was able to try some new foot-first beta for Meateater which makes the ending a bit higher percentage, so that was fun. I hope to get the triple exit done one day, it would make for a nice little training circuit. Videos are below:
Carnivore- it ain't pretty, but it'll do.
Working on the new end sequence of Meateater
Adam doing the butt-start on Baby Coffin
PC: Kevin
Kevin doing the unthinkable - toe hooking in Miuras
PC: Adam
So now the question is what's next?
I'm definitely having some project shopping issues. There's plenty of viable options, all of them probably as hard, if not harder than Carnivore. I know I have plenty of stuff at the Draw. I'm thinking of spending more time on Mars Roof, Flying Saucer, and Puzzle Box. I could also work on some of the linkups at Bad Ass, so that's another. Weather is looking better, so it might be time to delve into some of the more remote roof sectors along the forest roads, not to mention some trips just to go find new stuff. And then, there's the non-roof stuff. Here's a list:
Possible Roof projects at the draw:
Mars Roof (The Girl, Receptionist, Lolita, Suplexing)
Anorexic Roof (Eatmeater, Anorexic Direct)
Puzzle Box (RGod, Cosmic Tricycle, numerous linkups)
Flying Saucer (Saltine Crackw****, Patsy Gangsta)
Roof Projects not at the draw:
Drop Zone Left
Puma Prey
Underhill (Clampdown/Hockety Pockety)
Choss Roof (Choss Origins, Hydra Beta)
Non Roof Projects:
Streetfighter
Truffle Shuffle
The Traverse
Last Light
Tainted Teen
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