Mother's Day Week 2022: The Usual Draw Circuit

Flagstaff is funny. It seems like every time I go up there, I end up doing something climbing-related. So naturally, on the first day of the week my folks decided to spend a week up in Flagstaff, I ended up spending a half day climbing at the Draw. 

I mainly went out there with the express purpose of supporting Josh on his ascent on Anorexic. Unfortunately, I was busy warming up and by the time I headed over to the roof, he had already sent it, so I didn't actually accomplish my mission. That being said, I did some climbing as well. It's nice not having to bring any pads, and just hopping on the roof with a pair of shoes. I did the usual circuit, but didn't end up filming anything. Instead, I'll make some notes about the climbs that I did on Saturday. 

3x The Fin 

1x The Fin Direct 

• Tried it with Cole on my way out. I flashed it, but this climb is a solid 0.5/5, not sure why roof-monos get him so torqued. 

3x Bat Cave 

• Ran into Cole on my way out, so I tried some foot-first beta with him, and it doesn't work for me. To my credit, I did give it an honest go, and got close, but no cigar. Somehow, it works for Cole, who can't do it my default way. Tim (who I credit all my roof-climbing knowledge to) and his girlfriend showed up while I was trying it and confirmed that yes, Bat Cave done foot-first is just all shades of f'd up, and we exchanged some cool beta on it, including a method that allows it to be climbed backwards. It turns out you can use a high right foot into the pocket that has a pocket in it as a toe-hook, which will let you cross your right hand into a pinch, and the left hand to the finish jug. It didn't exactly work with me on Saturday but it's always good to know a few tricks.  

1x Ultramega 

Tim and his girlfriend who were doing some fitness laps on this one. It turns out that while Ultramega is a totally legitimate line that links up the Fin to the Bat Cave, the "official" fitness check goes according to these rules

• Need to not rest more than 10 seconds at any spot (if you choose to) while doing so
• Chug a beer at the end
• Climb all the way back and finish at the top-out of the Fin

In my ascent of this one, I don't think I rested more than 10 seconds at any spot. I will also note that this was possibly the fastest lap I've possibly done. For notes, I ended up walking my feet through after the initial Fin section, and then I do a double toe-hook turn around to make walking the feet easier, and then walk the feet through to the calf-hook rest. It's all for fun, anyways, and it gives me some stuff to focus on whenever I warm up here. 

1x Anorexic Sacrifice 

• If I'm wearing teams, make sure to dig the heel-toe cam deep by pointing the pinky toe down into the rock.

1x Meateater (day-flash with the new foot-first beta)

• The new foot-first beta makes the climb move so well, it pretty much cements this line as my new favorite line on the Anorexic roof. 

I also did try the first few moves of Carnivore Direct after watching Jake Doring and his AZR crew session Anorexic and Carnivore. Those guys are strong! Got a bit psyched watching so I gave it the old college try. Honestly, it feels pretty doable, so I might give it a few more goes the next time I'm there. I wrote my beta down, so I think I'm ready to take this one a bit seriously.  

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to get in any more climbing before I leave for Phoenix on Tuesday. However, I might have an update on some potential projects. I recently found a video of a roof-traverse called the Woodymaker in Fernow Draw. The video is very well-made and the climbing looks amazing. I do hope that I can scope it out! Video is shown below:

The Woodymaker

I also might as well make it out to Kelly Canyon for some recon =]. I've been fiending to try to find the Traverse and Last Light.