Reasons behind low motivation and new projects (Tony's Roof, Carnivore Direct)

I'm back in the coffee shop (Infusion Coffee and Tea) again after a hiatus of 2 weeks from the shop writing about my most recent trip up north the past Saturday. 

Unlike the previous Saturday's, there has been two differences. First, there is a respite from the rain. Second, I was not as psyched as I usually was, which is odd considering my past behavior and relationship with the draw. If I dive deep enough into it, it seems like I can't believe I made it as far as I did. Carnivore already took a decent emotional chunk out of me that I felt pushing my limits further will result in me tempting fate. Furthermore, with how quickly Eatmeater went down, things only seemed too good to be true. There's also something to be also said with the rest of the remaining climbs that I have left at the draw. For a long time, I felt like I've been playing catchup with those who've come before me. But now, it feels like I'm treading into territory that I shouldn't be in since so many strong climbers before me have gotten shut down on it, and that I should stay in my lane. Maybe I'm misguided about this, and I'm actually getting better and stronger, and therefore I'm ready for these new projects.

Anyways, since Flagstaff has been underneath constant rain, I haven't been up as much as I would like. Maybe it's a good thing, the monsoons have made the draw look much prettier again. Maybe it isn't, because I've become lazy with lack of access. Perhaps I should make the trip out here, even in rain. 

The draw getting a new makeover

The main reason I came up here was that Bobby finally has his working hours sorted again, and that we were able to session together in the hinterlands on his projects for the first time in two to three months. I don't have any particular projects in the hinterlands, as I feel like they are out of my league, but maybe it's time that I start treating them like a serious option. He, however, was coming up later in the day, so that was how I found myself warming up again on the Bat Cave warming up with two Georgia transplants, Jordan and Katie, and their dog Kolby. I also ran into two Tucson locals, Byron and his wife- who I met previously when climbing with Evan at Pufferfish. 

I initially planned on working the Street Fighter traverse, but every time I'm at the draw, I'm not in a particular mood to go and throw down on those pockets, which is funny considering how often I climb Anorexic, Meateater, and Bad Ass. Therefore, I followed Jordan and Katie to my usual haunt at the Anorexic Roof, where I did another lap on Anorexic, with modified beta. I ended up keeping my heel toe cam as I make the big move. Meanwhile, Jordan was working on Carnivore Direct. Carnivore Direct is a very straightforward, powerful climb that involves a contrived sequence of dynoing to the banana hueco hold from a compression position involving an improbable sloper. I've attached a video of local Flagstaff strongman, Joel Unema, climbing the line.

Rodeo jump!

I've initially dismissed Carnivore Direct as a climb that I could do, as I believed the slap to the sloper to be too large for me. That being said, I surprised myself by being able to grab the sloper, but not compress and stick the move, so it is possible that this climb is in my box and wheelhouse. I just need to adjust my left foot beta so that I can stick the sloper. Additionally, having done Carnivore, I only have three moves to stick. The first is the sloper slap. The second is the move from the right hand pocket to the pinch. The third, and final move is the jump to the banana hold. Typing it out now, it seems so easy. I should make a goal to try this line every time I'm underneath this roof, alongside making a visit to the Receptionist whenever I'm back up there. 

I then made the journey back to the main parking area, where I met up with Bobby and we traveled to Choss Roof via Woody Mountain Road. Rogers Lake is in full bloom!

Bobby is very stoked on Choss Roof and his projects of Choss Origins and Chosse Posse. For me, Choss Roof still looks very big and I'm not very confident in my sequences on it. That being said, I also don't make too many trips out here since I'm not sure if my vehicle can. If my car actually makes it out to Choss Roof, then maybe I'll start coming here more often. Bobby warmed up on some moves of Choss Origins, and made some good links on Chosse Posse with his new-found beta to stick the bear-claw hold. I made some decent progress as well by sticking the first few moves, but the move to the big pocket still eludes me. 

Bobby warming up on the "good" holds on Choss Origins as I give a classic "spot"

Going to the first move on Chosse Posse

Going to the second move

Bobby sticking the first big throw

Bobby getting ready for the left hand to the bear claw

Double toehooks for days!

To the big pocket as I'm ready for the inevitable swing

With some form of success, we decided to call it good on Choss Roof and decided to make the journey to Tony's Roof in the Gray Havens. It turns out that I was right on the money the last time I was out there, and that Tony's Roof was in the picture I posted. Bobby and I ended up getting down there and put some work on the line! Tony's Roof is a good-sized roof, in between the size of Bad Ass and Anorexic, with a single good line. Style wise, it is a Priest Draw roof with the colors of Cherry Canyon, so it ended up being a good fit for me! 

An area filled with the sleeping giants 

She's beautiful

With slightly thrashed skin, and assistance from a single beta video, I was able to piece together all the moves for this line. When I do this line, I think I will have a better understanding of it, but this has a feeling of the bad ass roof with Anorexic Sacrifice levels of tension without the heel-toe cam. I gave a hail-mary burn at the end of the day, which I ended up punting on, but I think this will go down the next time I'm back out there. 

Rage, rage against the dying of the light

The dying light

Although it didn't completely fix my motivation problem, Saturday's session might have helped me get going again. Realistically, I know that I won't get instantaneously better, and that getting motivated again will require some time, especially now that I'm aware of my lack of confidence in trying the harder lines. It's so strange knowing that the lines that seemed so far out of reach are actually well within reach and that all I need to do is open the door and take the first step. This realization, combined with some new thoughts about body tension/how to pull on holds (outwards, not downwards!)/how to improve my climbing, I feel much more confident that I'll be regain my fire. 

Lines that currently have my interest:

Street Fighter (V7)

Tony's Roof (V8)
Carnivore Direct (V9)

Receptionist (V10)