Progress

Last Thursday, I gave myself a mental health day from work and went to the Draw again. I wanted to spend some time trying to work, and potentially send, Blockhead, since the last couple times I went, I wasn't really able to get in a good working session. Personally, I think it's that when I'm out with multiple friends, I don't want to hold them up by working a line, as my projecting process can be a bit tedious, and they didn't sign up to watch me fall off of a move and contemplate why I can't do something for an extended amount of time. 

Anyways, I ended up giving the line a few goes from the beginning and my initial beta where I try for a right drop knee just wasn't working. I was suddenly inspired by a thought to use a right heel hook on the first initial sloper that I go to, and suddenly the move felt so much easier, with much higher percentage. It made sense, but I was surprised, as I hadn't used a heel hook in the middle of a sequence in so long. Sometimes, all it takes is a step back to reexamine your initial assumptions, and then the solution becomes clear. With that, I took a quick lunch break, and the problem went quite quickly, which marks this as the last independent line on the Bad Ass Roof, the first new boulder I have done this season, and one of my short-term projects this season. Sick! 

This boulder also marks the first time I haven't gotten what I call: post-send depression. I'm not sure where it comes from, but usually after a project goes, I usually feel quite empty, as I hoped that maybe climbing would satisfy something I needed. However, unlike these previous lines, I felt quite satisfied. It is like that sometimes. 

With Thursday ascent, I made a little video showcasing 4 lines on Bad Ass that starts from the back of the roof and climbs out to 4 different exits. In a way, it's a bit like Mars Roof, and therefore can be useful to build up basic roof fitness, power, and technique.   

On Saturday, I made a return trip to the Draw, this time with Carmen and her friend Joy, who is from New Mexico, and who both are quite new to the Draw. We spent time at Bat Roof, where both of them made ascents of the Fin, and gave the Bat Cave some burns. We then went to Bad Ass to avoid some crowds, but it seemed like all of Phoenix and Flagstaff were at the draw, and we ran into a Phoenix crew and then a Flagstaff crew of Priest Draw OGs in short order. While Carmen and Joy tried a few of the lines, I ended up doing my first lap of what I'll call the Bad Ass 4, where I climbed all 4 lines in the above video, first go. 

We then headed over to Mars Roof, where I made more progress on The Girl by doing all the moves in a session and chunking the climb into two from the start. I was also able to capture footage of me sticking the big sloper throw, so now I understand how the move works. It feels weird making so much progress, but I won't question it. I'll try to ride the wave for as long as I can. 

Video from Skyler, Frame grab from yours truly

Also, although I'm not much of a highballer, I think that as I get more comfortable out trying some crazy stuff out in the woods, I think I'll get into it. Watch this, it's a good video.