I've been primarily focused on the Girl at Mars roof, and I'm making slow and steady progress. The past memorial weekend, I was able to chunk it into 3, and to be quite honest, if you splice the footage together well and didn't examine it super closely, it looks like I already did it.
But, I didn't.
Here's the 3 chunks:
In true Mars fashion, it feels so close, but yet so far away. Similar to Receptionist, the crux is not the roof, but climbing through the bulge. There are two moves here that I find the most difficult. The first is falling into the right hand before the pogo. I was able to figure out that if I set up a cheeky bicycle, I can very easily control the come-in, removing the abruptness. The second is the pogo. It took me a while to realize, but the reason that getting my right foot into the teacup hold was so difficult from a ground rip is that I was being impatient when placing my left foot on the pinch. Then, there's the rest of the the climb which includes the pumpy traverse out right, and initial roof section. Mentally, I know I'm more than capable of doing the moves, but I feel that progress has been stymied due to conditions and skin. I'll keep trying it until I stop making progress.
As for other climbs, I figured out how to release the toe cam on R God is Neither and did the initial moves of Cosmic Tricycle into Cosmic Bicycle, so it's always nice to see progress. It would be good to climb on something not pockety for once.
And here's some moderates and pictures of me and friends mucking about on random lines at the draw:
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| Trying to skip every hold on the Coffin |
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