Wednesday, August 23, 2023

The Three Exits

Priest Draw is cool in that the skills you learn from the easiest climbs build upon each other as you try harder and harder climbs. At the end of it is Anorexic Sacrifice, which takes a bit of power, pain tolerance, and general roof finesse. After that, it feels like you have the majority of the skills required to work on any boulder problem at the draw. The Anorexic Roof is great for testing fundamentals. 

I haven't climbed at Anorexic Roof in a month or so, so I went back the past Saturday to circuit the lines to build up fitness as temperatures drop. I was able to up my record last year and do a pure ascent (no falls) of the 3 exits (Anorexic Sacrifice, Meateater, Carnivore). I was also able to spend some time at Mars Roof the past weekend and worked out new beta to make The Receptionist higher percentage, and made good progress on Lolita. It turns out that having the front 3 fingers in the teacup hold makes the toss to the phone on The Receptionist much more feasible. I think it may be time for a repeat. My left ring finger still has a blood blister from Saltine Crackwhore. Here's a video of the 3 exits, and a little extra. 


2 comments:

  1. Only 3 exits!? your forgetting the bk broiler mate

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I haven't forgotten! But we had less than 7 crashpads so options were limited. Can't wait to go for an upgrade of this one..

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Priest Draw/EoY Update

I'm still been working on Lolita  at Priest Draw. I've now progressed to the point where the boulder can be segmented into 3 parts, ...